Europe - Letters Home

Our first ski holiday in Livigno, Italy

30/01/2024 emsia.kruger

This winter is our fifth one in Switzerland, and we still can’t ski. We have long since come to terms with the fact that we can enjoy the snow in ways other than skiing. Since all of Zander’s friends ski during the winter months, we needed to create an opportunity for him to learn.

Livigno, little Tibet of the Alps

We settled on Livigno in Italy, a location conveniently accessible to us, especially with the train that transports cars through the Alps. Often referred to as the Tibet of the Alps, Livigno earns this nickname primarily due to its high altitude and climate. The region experiences lengthy and chilly winters characterised by substantial snowfall. During this season, the valley’s streams and lakes freeze, adding to the picturesque winter landscape.

The region provides numerous opportunities to revel in the snow. On both sides of the town are mountains boasting ski slopes and exquisitely crafted snow parks. During our visit, it was evident that preparations were underway in Livigno for the Milan-Cortina 2026 Winter Olympics. They will host the snowboard and freestyle competitions. During our visit, we never used our car. The central area in town is car-free, and in the ski season, free bus transport is available for visitors.

The town, decorated in festive colours, offered excellent opportunities for duty-free shopping. In addition, the Christmas village with charming wooden stalls had an array of handmade gifts. We stayed close to a bakery, and I relished the simple pleasure of strolling through the snow each morning for freshly baked Italian bread.

Livigno is popular among South Africans

Livigno enjoys popularity among South Africans, evident in the many Afrikaans conversations overheard on the streets. Charl and I smiled when a man admitted to his wife in Afrikaans, “I now realise that I am far too overweight and unfit for this type of activity.”

I visited Livigno as a young adult with a group of South Africans for a ski holiday. Progress was slow for me. It took me until the fourth day to navigate on skis, execute turns, and stop without tumbling. Nevertheless, the satisfaction of mastering a new skill left a lasting impression.

Zander learned to ski

Zander thoroughly enjoyed his mornings at ski school and quickly mastered the skills. At age 15, Zander was the youngest in the group. At this age, only your parents worry about risks. I was amazed at how rapidly the ski instructors taught the young children to ski. They were fearless and could ski down the slopes with excellent technique within a day or two.

After lunch, Zander practised his newfound skills on the ski slopes near our house. Charl and I took different cable cars up the mountains, exploring various routes. There’s a satisfying feeling when your boots crunch on the freshly groomed snow, and you can gaze down at the village with its snow-covered roofs and frozen lake from the heights above.

Every sport has its share of injuries. We have, unfortunately, witnessed several skiing accidents. However, the well-trained emergency services responded promptly to aid the injured. My heart almost stopped beating when, on the third day, Zander mentioned attempting a black route.

A friend cautioned, “In the fine print of travel insurance, they state that they do not cover accidents on black routes. If you get injured, they transport you to the nearest hospital in St. Moritz, Switzerland. It is one of the oldest and most expensive ski resorts in Switzerland. We used to jest that if you get hurt on a black route, you better hope someone tows you to a blue or red route. Otherwise, you might need to sell your house to pay the medical bill!”

Centrale ski school

On Tuesday evening, the ski instructors from the Central Ski School, where Zander was enrolled, hosted a show on the slopes. I, too, attended the same school 25 years ago. I can vividly recall the New Year’s Eve show with the gentle falling snow. In their recent presentation, they delved into the history of skiing and demonstrated various snow activities. In addition, they acknowledged the countries of origin of the course participants. Our excitement soared when they acknowledged South Africa We enthusiastically joined fellow South Africans in cheering for our home country.

Lots of snow

We experienced beautiful sunshine for most of our holiday. However, a few days before Christmas, it started to snow, creating a picturesque snow basin that draped the entire town.

Fortunately, the municipality was well-prepared, deploying bulldozers to clear the streets and trucks to remove substantial snow masses.

Aware of the hazards posed by melting and freezing snow in the cold weather, they diligently covered the roads with salt to prevent slippery conditions. Concerns about the journey back arose as we lacked chains for our car tires, making snow driving perilous. To mitigate the risk, we opted to return home a day earlier. It was a wise decision. The drive back through the Alps was already challenging.

Livigno guarantees an exceptional experience that I wholeheartedly recommend. Zander is delighted that he acquired a new skill and looks forward to future skiing adventures with his friends.

Regards

Emsia

Autumn Reflections in Tyrol

07/11/2023 emsia.kruger

We celebrated my recent birthday in Tyrol, Austria, near Innsbruck. Our accommodation was on a dairy and guest farm, Edenhauserhof, near Natters Lake. The beautiful crystal displays at Swarovski Crystal World fascinated me. I contemplated the symbolic meaning of both reflection and refraction of light.

Family life on the dairy and guest farm

The farmhouse took my breath away. It is a beautiful wooden house decorated with vibrant pink petunias on the windowsills. In the backdrop were lush green pastures, accompanied by the melodic tinkling of cowbells. At sunset, the cows leisurely walked to the barn for their evening milking. We observed how the farmer diligently recorded each cow’s milk production alongside their respective names.

The children played outside with toys and the kittens and dogs. They are the tenth generation on this farm. The grandmother was responsible for breakfast. She offered a spread of farm-fresh and homemade products. We experienced her warm hospitality when she patiently conversed with us in German, ensuring we could understand her every word.

There is a quant chapel where the young couple, managing the farm, exchanged wedding vows and baptized their baby girl during Covid-19. Witnessing their collaborative and close-knit family dynamics left us deeply touched.

Close to the farmhouse are camping facilities, nestled beside Natters Lake. A sunny autumn glow in the air and the reflections of the warm colours on the lake’s surface created a tranquil atmosphere. Everyone relished and revelled in nature’s grand spectacle.

Innsbruck

Innsbruck, the capital of the Tyrol region, is a beautiful town nestled in the Inn River valley, embraced by towering mountains. The name “Innsbruck” translates to “Bridge over the Inn.”

Internationally acclaimed as a hub for winter sports, Innsbruck has hosted the Winter Olympics twice. The modern Bergisel ski jump, with its breathtaking view over Innsbruck, bears witness to this.

We strolled through the enchanting old town area. The most iconic landmark in Innsbruck is the Golden Roof, completed in 1500. We had the privilege of witnessing a couple celebrating their wedding in front of this historic edifice.

Swarovski

The Swarovski Crystal World in Wattens, just a short distance from Innsbruck, was a highlight for me.

It is a family-owned business managed by the fifth generation. It is renowned for its exquisite ornaments and jewellery. However, they also have an Optics division specializing in lenses and telescopes.

The Crystal World consists of a Giant Cave with 18 Rooms full of Wonders and an enchanting Garden. Within the Chambers of Wonder, globally acclaimed artists, designers, and architects have crafted diverse experiences to showcase the multifaceted beauty of crystal. The exhibits provided interactive, immersive experiences.

Our journey began in the Silent Lightroom, an enchanting winter wonderland featuring falling snow and temperatures as low as minus ten degrees. The following room, the Crystal Dome, comprised 595 mirrors, producing a mesmerizing depth effect that made me feel like I had stepped inside a giant crystal.

The “Heroes of Peace” exhibition left the most profound impact on me. Innovative projection technology allowed life-size holograms of Nobel Peace Prize laureates to come to life. These “Heroes of Peace” engaged with visitors, offering inspiration and sharing the wisdom they’ve gleaned from their extraordinary lives.

In the Garden, I felt like a child. I was mesmerized by the crystal clouds reflecting in the crystal-clear pool below. When the sun emerged from behind the clouds, the crystals shimmered like Christmas lights adorning a tree.

Light refraction and reflection

Amidst all our experiences, light refraction and reflection resonated as symbols.

Refraction is light bending as it transitions from one transparent substance to another. It plays a vital role in various optical instruments, from lenses to magnifying glasses, prisms, and rainbows. Even our eyes rely on the bending of light. Like crystals, we allow God’s light to pass through us, each of us uniquely bending it to contribute to a more beautiful and colourful world.

Reflection, on the other hand, involves the rebound of light without absorption. Surfaces serve as mirrors, reflecting the image. In the same way, other people and challenging situations can serve as mirrors, allowing us to see ourselves more clearly. Subsequently, we require reflection time to make sense of what we observe and to decide what we want to do with this newfound awareness. Our reflections are instrumental in helping us comprehend our identity and aspirations.

Within families, both light refractions and reflections occur. Each member interprets the light in their unique hues and shades. Family members’ reflections serve as mirrors that aid us in gaining a clearer understanding of ourselves. Occasionally, these reflections inspire and motivate us to further develop ourselves.

My recent gift, “Letters to Emsia,” was a mirror, reflecting the perspectives of friends and family and offering valuable insights.

In the video below, I provide a visual reflection of our weekend.

Regards

Emsia

Various jewels of the Baltic Sea

29/08/2023 emsia.kruger

It is fascinating as well as enriching to learn more about other cultures. There are so many aspects that have had an impact on the development of cultures all over the world.

The opportunity to live in Europe for a few years makes certain countries and cultures more accessible to us. We decided to spend the summer vacation exploring parts of Northern Europe around the Baltic Sea with a ship.

Zander practised his German

I shared in a previous letter that our family has a long journey with MSC cruises. The Baltic Sea cruise departed from Kiel, and most passengers were German.

The use of German on the ship was an advantage for Zander. He joined the teen group and was brave enough to try to speak German, forming precious friendships with German boys in the process. They were very patient with him and helped him improve his German vocabulary and pronunciation. They even agreed to meet again sometime in the coming year in a German city.

During this Baltic Sea cruise, I learned more about certain Northern European countries that I knew very little about.

Copenhagen, Denemarke

Arriving in Copenhagen’s harbour, I immediately noticed the rows of windmills in the sea. Denmark is a leader in wind power innovation.

After our visit, my image of Copenhagen is the rows of coloured buildings like Lego houses.

Lego originated in Denmark when a carpenter started making toys to supplement his income. Charl and Zander like to build Lego and really enjoyed the oldest Legoland store with many displays.

We grew up with the stories of Hans Christian Anderson, a Danish author of fairy tales. A statue of the Little Mermaid that forms part of these stories was the first attraction we saw in Copenhagen.

Tallinn, Estonia

When we walked into the old town through two city towers in Tallinn, it felt like we were leaving the 21st century behind and were back in the Middle Ages. Flower sellers created a welcoming and fragrant atmosphere.

We enjoyed the handmade items the owners proudly displayed in the tourist shops. The woollen sweaters, hats and socks made me realize how cold it must get here in the winter. There were also many products carved from wood. I assume that creating handcrafts is a way to get through the long cold winters.

I loved the beautiful jewellery made from Baltic amber, which they source from the sea. It is a gemstone that evolved over 45 million years ago from fossilised resin from pine trees.

The Russian architecture of some buildings reminded us that we are very close to Russia. In front of the restaurant, where we enjoyed a beer, was a poster indicating their dissatisfaction with Putin.

Helsinki, Finland

In contrast to Estonia, Helsinki, known for its architecture and design, has a tremendously modern and minimalist feel. Zander loved Helsinki.

I wanted to see the Sibelius monument in honour of a world-famous composer. This monument consists of 600 organ pipes. It was a little way out of the city and with some time to spare we decided to go for a walk in a modern shopping centre afterwards.

Construction work close to the centre meant that the buses no longer stopped at the places indicated on the road map and caused us great difficulty getting back to the ship in time. Fortunately, my experienced map readers came to our rescue.

Stockholm, Sweden

Stockholm took my breath away, and I would love to return because I didn’t have enough time to see everything on my wish list. The city stretches over 14 islands, and I loved the city with all its water and well-maintained parks.

We visited the Palace, the official residence of the king, who has been in power for 50 years. I was amazed to see how accessible they made the Palace to visitors. It is classy and beautiful.

Spending a day in Stockholm’s subway is like visiting an art exhibition. Artists decorated a hundred stations with unique art on their platforms, walls or waiting halls. It was also interesting to be able to understand the written language because there are many words that are close to Afrikaans.

If I had more time, I would have liked to visit the Nobel Prize Museum, ABBA Museum and the parks.

Our visit to Northern Europe and the Baltic Sea was an enriching experience. I share photos below.

Kind regards

Emsia

Beauty and tranquillity on Lake Garda

15/08/2023 emsia.kruger

We live in a busy world full of challenges and change. Our body and soul need silence and tranquillity. We need time to catch our breath, make sense of everything, switch off and be present to enjoy the beauty around us. A change in our environment often does wonders.

When we stopped in front of our holiday home near Lake Garda in Northern Italy, it looked like just the right place to quiet the mind.

The accommodation had a large porch surrounded by purple bougainvillaea. The cicadas in the surrounding olive groves provided background music. Early morning and evening, the church bell played the most beautiful tune, encouraging the local donkey and peacock to add their musical contributions.

Lake Garda

Lake Garda is the largest lake in Italy, located between the Alps and the Po Valley. The high mountains, picturesque villages and lush nature contribute to a beautiful picture. I admired the well-tended gardens, lawns and many historic stone buildings that adorn the shores of the lake.

Swimming in the lake was a tranquil experience. The water is silvery clean and very refreshing. Families played in the water with a ball or rowed on a SUP or kayak. The sun sparkled on the water, and we could see the pebbles on the bottom.

We explored the area and visited the different villages by the lake.

Toscolano Moderno

The village closest to our accommodation was Toscolano Moderno. This village dates to Roman times and was an essential centre of paper production. It has a port from where boats took the paper to Venice. In the past, noble families lived here. Remains of beautiful villas surrounded by numerous lemon groves and lushes gardens full of purple bougainvillaeas testify to this.

Limone

The most beautiful village for me was Limone. Limone still has the atmosphere of a village, whose main activities until the last century were fishing and olive and lemon cultivation. We visited Limone on market day and were able to experience first-hand the sale of lemons and other local and handmade products.

The town of Limone stretches along the shores of Lake Garda and has stone houses tucked into the mountain slopes and decorated with plants and flowers. Many places overlook the lake, and you can enjoy beautiful views of Lake Garda if you are prepared to climb the stairs leading to the terraces.

Salo

Our last visit was to Salo, the largest city on the western shore of Lake Garda. I read that Salo has the longest promenade in Italy, and we joined the other visitors in going for a walk.

There are numerous cafes and restaurants, and we just sat down for a while and watched the world go by.

The narrow roads in Italy

The narrow roads in Italy challenged us. With a stone wall on both sides of the road to town, we just hoped for no traffic in our direction. Sometimes we were lucky, but other times Charl had to drive for long distances in reverse to make way for workers rushing to get to work on time. We have concluded that there is a huge difference between Italian and Swiss drivers!

One of these paths that passed close to our accommodation forms part of a Camino path. The many walkers encouraged Zander and me to venture part of the road between two churches. The views over the lake and many shade trees on the route created a pleasant experience.

Thunderstorm

One night a thunderstorm caused a spectacle in the sky above the lake. It was stormy, we heard glass breaking, and the wind turned over the potted plants on the porch. The sunbeds and umbrellas ended up in the pool. A dad tried in vain to find his children’s toys that they have left outside. He commented with a smile that they would have to do a treasure hunt the following day.

The next morning, a calm descended, and the sun shone brightly on the lake as a sign that the storm was over. I am sharing our holiday photos below.

I am grateful that we could experience the tranquillity of Lake Garda. As children, our family went to Hartenbos during our summer holidays to experience peace and a change in environment. For me, Lake Garda is the European form of a Hartenbos holiday.

regards

Emsia

Additions to my London memory box

31/01/2023 emsia.kruger

I had mixed feelings about Charl’s suggestion to visit London during the Christmas holiday week. There are so many places I would like to show Zander. However, this would mean that I would have to open the London memory box that I have stored very deep away for the past 25 years. It was time.

London was a period of growth (1995 -1997)

My two years in London in my early twenties were a period of growth. This Afrikaans-speaking Kalahari girl had to learn to speak proper English and adapt to a global city with grey and cold weather. Sometimes I stood under the SA flag on Trafalgar square and prayed for strength for the day while the tears ran down my cheeks. I found solace in the Kiosk owner across the office’s “Good morning my, Love.”

It is clear how my London experience was a preparation for my life path. In London, I really got to know myself and my Creator. I learned that we have much more inner strength and perseverance than we think. The experience ignited my flame for my travelling, interest in other cultures, and writing passions. I learned the necessity to get involved and be open to new things to integrate into a new environment. The experience allowed me to perform in a London theatre as part of a charity Pantomime production.

Returning to South Africa after London

Our period in London concluded in September 1997, shortly after Lady Diana’s tragic death. Full of hope and dreams, we boarded the plane back to South Africa. However, the adjustment back in South Africa was much more complicated than we expected. We, and many things in South Africa, have changed significantly in these two years. We were gifted two beautiful little boys, but our marriage began to show significant cracks and ended in 2005.

God blessed me with a new life partner and a third son Zander. Zander also enjoys exploring new places and cultures, and the prospect of a London visit during Christmas and New Year’s celebrations at Edinburgh’s Hogmanay excited him.

London Christmas break (2022)

In Switzerland, we watch British television, and the language, culture and humour are familiar. We watched the entire Crown series and other British Netflix series like Outlander. Britain has a significant impact and influence on South Africa and consequently feels like a family member.

London and I have changed a lot in the last 25 years, but there was a familiarity in our reunion. The grey weather and famous historical landmarks brought fond memories. All the Christmas lights in Oxford Street and Covent Garden created excitement. We bought an English Scrabble in Hamley’s toy store, which Zander used to show off. Charl and I still tend to think in Afrikaans.

We experienced a typical British comedy theatre production in the West End and ate traditional fish and chips with plenty of salt, vinegar, and tomato sauce. The Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park was a spectacle. We visited Buckingham Palace to see the Changing of the Guards. However, officials cancelled it due to the rain. We also spent a day with friends of Charl whom we had not seen in South Africa for twenty years.

However, the day after Christmas, Charl had flu symptoms. After serious consideration, we decided to come home. Zander and I were sick with flu before our holiday, and we understood how bad and fragile a person feels. We were disappointed to miss the ABBA concert and the Edinburgh Hogmanay but had compassion with him.

We brought British traditions home with us

When we got home, Zander suggested we make the English tradition of a High Afternoon Tea part of our holiday routine. I decided it was time for him to learn some cooking and baking skills, especially since he is permanently hungry. As a result, we spent the rest of the holiday eating tea and scones, while playing Scrabble.

I am grateful for the opportunity that forced me to open my London memory box again and build new memories with Charl and Zander.

Kind regards

Emsia

Colourful landscapes of Provence

03/08/2022 emsia.kruger

All of us were looking forward to the summer holidays. However, our needs and expectations differed. I wanted to see places and experience people and their traditions. After a busy year, Charl needed to rest and relax, and Zander had teenage needs.

Provence, in the south, of France, was high on my “bucket list”. The area is known for its sunny weather, colourful countryside, fresh farm produce and Roman ruins. Charl agreed to Provence on the condition that we stay somewhere by the sea to swim, sleep, and relax afterwards. With all the strikes at the airports, we travelled by car.

In this letter, I share more about our Provence experience. In my following letter, I will share more about the “relaxing part of the holiday”, which took an interesting turn.

Nougat from Montélimar

Our first stop was Montélimar, famous for its Nougat. The delicacy is made mainly of egg whites, lavender honey, vanilla and large amounts of almonds and pistachio nuts. We visited the oldest nougat manufacturer and museum. They own beehives next to the lavender fields and almond groves. As in the old days, the Nougat is still mainly made by hand.

Montélimar’s local market, with many fresh and lavender-inspired, products was an experience.

The old city of Avignon

When we drove into Avignon, we realized we had a problem. We were unaware of the art festival during the week of our visit. Temperatures were over 40 degrees, and we couldn’t find parking anywhere. It felt like Oudtshoorn’s KKNK festival in South Africa. We drove to our hotel on the outskirts of town for some time to think but couldn’t check in yet.

The hotel offered much-needed air conditioning, a swimming pool, a foosball, and a snooker table. I wanted to see the old city, but the men indicated no interest. Fortunately, they are almost always hungry, and the thought of food at the festival was good enough motivation for them to get on the city bus with me.

Lavender fields of the Lourmarin region

Of everything in Provence, I most wanted to see the purple-blue lavender fields of the Lourmarin region. The old hill town of Gordes, with views over the valleys, greeted us first. Further down the valley, the 12th-century monastery, surrounded by lavender, took my breath away. After we visited their gift shop, we walked around in a lavender scent.

From here, we drove through lavender fields to the village of Roussillon. The place is known for its red cliffs formed by the iron-rich colour pigment in the soil. The red, yellow, and brown shades formed a striking contrast with the lush green pine trees and were used to colour the town’s buildings.

A promise of ice cream in Lourmarin encouraged the men to travel even further. The lavender-flavoured ice cream was a first for me but surprisingly delicious. The shops offered French apricot-and-lavender jam, lavender syrup, and lavender shortbread. In the square, the French enjoyed the typical European summer lunch of melon wrapped in Parma Ham.

Van Gogh’s village of Arles

The Dutch Vincent van Gogh lived in Arles for a year in 1888 in search of the sun’s warmth. The tourism office has a walking route, enabling tourists to compare certain places in Arles with Van Gogh’s works of art.

We visited the street cafe in one of his famous paintings and the mental hospital where he lived in his last days. They maintain the garden to still look like his painting.

One of his most famous paintings is Starry Night which he painted along the Rhône River close to where we stayed. As I walked through the streets, I recalled the words of the song titled Vincent in my mind:

Starry, starry night
Paint your palette blue and grey
Look out on a summer's day
With eyes that know the darkness in my soul

Now, I understand what you tried to say to me
And how you suffered for your sanity
And how you tried to set them free
They would not listen, they did not know how
Perhaps they'll listen now

Bastille Day in Marseille

Marseille left us with colourful memories. In the town centre is the old harbour with markets and street cafes. From the old port, we drove by bus along the coast to swim in the Mediterranean Sea. Charl and Zander waited a week for this experience. However, the beautiful beaches and turquoise water were worth the wait.

We experienced Bastille Day in Marseille. After the parades by the French military and other protection forces, people picnicked in the old harbour while waiting for the fireworks. The fireworks were launched from platforms in the sea and synchronized with beautiful music. It illuminated the beautiful stone walls of the old harbour and immortalized moments in my memory.

I share my photos in the video below.

Kind regards

Emsia