Our first ski holiday in Livigno, Italy
This winter is our fifth one in Switzerland, and we still can’t ski. We have long since come to terms with the fact that we can enjoy the snow in ways other than skiing. Since all of Zander’s friends ski during the winter months, we needed to create an opportunity for him to learn.
Livigno, little Tibet of the Alps
We settled on Livigno in Italy, a location conveniently accessible to us, especially with the train that transports cars through the Alps. Often referred to as the Tibet of the Alps, Livigno earns this nickname primarily due to its high altitude and climate. The region experiences lengthy and chilly winters characterised by substantial snowfall. During this season, the valley’s streams and lakes freeze, adding to the picturesque winter landscape.
The region provides numerous opportunities to revel in the snow. On both sides of the town are mountains boasting ski slopes and exquisitely crafted snow parks. During our visit, it was evident that preparations were underway in Livigno for the Milan-Cortina 2026 Winter Olympics. They will host the snowboard and freestyle competitions. During our visit, we never used our car. The central area in town is car-free, and in the ski season, free bus transport is available for visitors.
The town, decorated in festive colours, offered excellent opportunities for duty-free shopping. In addition, the Christmas village with charming wooden stalls had an array of handmade gifts. We stayed close to a bakery, and I relished the simple pleasure of strolling through the snow each morning for freshly baked Italian bread.
Livigno is popular among South Africans
Livigno enjoys popularity among South Africans, evident in the many Afrikaans conversations overheard on the streets. Charl and I smiled when a man admitted to his wife in Afrikaans, “I now realise that I am far too overweight and unfit for this type of activity.”
I visited Livigno as a young adult with a group of South Africans for a ski holiday. Progress was slow for me. It took me until the fourth day to navigate on skis, execute turns, and stop without tumbling. Nevertheless, the satisfaction of mastering a new skill left a lasting impression.
Zander learned to ski
Zander thoroughly enjoyed his mornings at ski school and quickly mastered the skills. At age 15, Zander was the youngest in the group. At this age, only your parents worry about risks. I was amazed at how rapidly the ski instructors taught the young children to ski. They were fearless and could ski down the slopes with excellent technique within a day or two.
After lunch, Zander practised his newfound skills on the ski slopes near our house. Charl and I took different cable cars up the mountains, exploring various routes. There’s a satisfying feeling when your boots crunch on the freshly groomed snow, and you can gaze down at the village with its snow-covered roofs and frozen lake from the heights above.
Every sport has its share of injuries. We have, unfortunately, witnessed several skiing accidents. However, the well-trained emergency services responded promptly to aid the injured. My heart almost stopped beating when, on the third day, Zander mentioned attempting a black route.
A friend cautioned, “In the fine print of travel insurance, they state that they do not cover accidents on black routes. If you get injured, they transport you to the nearest hospital in St. Moritz, Switzerland. It is one of the oldest and most expensive ski resorts in Switzerland. We used to jest that if you get hurt on a black route, you better hope someone tows you to a blue or red route. Otherwise, you might need to sell your house to pay the medical bill!”
Centrale ski school
On Tuesday evening, the ski instructors from the Central Ski School, where Zander was enrolled, hosted a show on the slopes. I, too, attended the same school 25 years ago. I can vividly recall the New Year’s Eve show with the gentle falling snow. In their recent presentation, they delved into the history of skiing and demonstrated various snow activities. In addition, they acknowledged the countries of origin of the course participants. Our excitement soared when they acknowledged South Africa We enthusiastically joined fellow South Africans in cheering for our home country.
Lots of snow
We experienced beautiful sunshine for most of our holiday. However, a few days before Christmas, it started to snow, creating a picturesque snow basin that draped the entire town.
Fortunately, the municipality was well-prepared, deploying bulldozers to clear the streets and trucks to remove substantial snow masses.
Aware of the hazards posed by melting and freezing snow in the cold weather, they diligently covered the roads with salt to prevent slippery conditions. Concerns about the journey back arose as we lacked chains for our car tires, making snow driving perilous. To mitigate the risk, we opted to return home a day earlier. It was a wise decision. The drive back through the Alps was already challenging.
Livigno guarantees an exceptional experience that I wholeheartedly recommend. Zander is delighted that he acquired a new skill and looks forward to future skiing adventures with his friends.
Regards
Emsia